Hello friends, I know that there’s a lot going on in the world at the moment (I have had my eyes glued to the news these past two weeks), so firstly I’m sending love to whoever might need it, and I hope that this newsletter might offer some nice travel escapism. I’ve just come back from a lovely week in Marrakech with my mum to celebrate her 70th birthday. This was my fourth time visiting Morocco and my third in Marrakech and despite the recent earthquake that threatened to sweep the rug from underneath it, Marrakech is buzzing with energy and life, albeit with signs of restoration work underway to repair some of the cracked buildings and crumbling facades.
It’s one of my favorite places to visit as there’s nowhere quite like it within a 3.5 hour flight from Paris, especially once you’re inside the dusty terracotta walls of the medina, with its dizzying cacophony of colors, sounds and smells; scents of spices, herbs, grilled chicken and fresh pomegranate juice, juxtaposed with the not so nice whiffs of drains and petrol fumes that somehow add to its unique charm. Marrakech is an assault on the senses and can be quite a shock for first time visitors (my mum being one of them), who are not used to its tiny cramped streets where motorbikes, pedestrians, donkeys and carts hustle for space, but there are few places so close to Europe where you can feel this kind of energy, making it a city to experience at least once in a lifetime and the reason why I suggested we visit, when my mum said she wanted to go somewhere different to celebrate her milestone birthday.
One of the reasons I love to travel is for creative inspiration and Marrakech has it in bucket loads. In recent years it’s become an exciting culinary and design destination, with great restaurants boasting panoramic views popping up all around the city, ceramic offerings and beautifully-designed riads aplenty. Being the interior and design aficionado that I am, I planned our itinerary appealing to my aesthetic taste, but also added in more traditional places and experiences that my mum would enjoy, what with her being a little older and not necessarily so interested in trying a restaurant, just because its interior looked good.
When I started planning our trip back in July, many of the riads that were at the top of my list were already booked or weren’t available for the entirety of our stay, so we had to move around quite a bit, but the upside of this meant that we were able to try out a few different places and so I now have a sense of where I would go back to. Plus it was good for my mum, who had never been before, to get a taste for different types of accommodation. So here’s our five night itinerary, with everywhere we slept, dined, visited and shopped.
STAY
For our first night in Marrakech I booked Dar Rbaa Laroub, having read about it in an old Times article. The fact that the article said it was French-owned (Jean-Noel has been living in Marrakech for +20 years after he fell in love with the country during his first trip here at age 17) and one of the first riads where one could stay, made me curious to look inside, plus it was also incredibly reasonable - we booked the ‘Red Room’ (presumably named after its traditionally-made red headboard and bed throw) for 75€ the night, which is a small, but comfy (it has a king size bed) and beautifully (but simply) decorated room with an original working fireplace, white plaster walls, vintage light fixtures and added personal touches such as books, black and white photos and art works.
The rest of the riad feels cosy and lived in, what with it being Jean-Noel’s home when he’s not staying in his countryside property. It’s the most personal of spaces we stayed in, which obviously appealed to me; the reception area that doubles up as a lounge is filled with books, photographs and memorabilia, and on arrival you are personally greeted by him and his spritely little dog Jackie. The rooftop, where we ate dinner on our first night (the dinner was good, but a little pricey for Marrakech and the offering at 30€ per person), is a little like a secret garden with lots of established plants, cacti and different areas to sit. Although there’s no pool or aircon (the reason my mum wasn’t a fan) and it lacks a few amenities like a hairdryer, it was one of my favorites and I would love to go back with Victor or a friend.
We stayed two nights (over my mum’s birthday) in this Irish-owned and more traditionally-designed riad with dark wood, splashes of green, orange and burgundy. It was my mum’s favourite for its amenities - they had everything, including a hairdryer and aircon. I hesitated between this and another, newer riad and actually booked both for the same dates, aiming to cancel one before we left. In the end the other riad canceled as they’d sadly experienced a bit too much damage from the earthquake, making the decision for me. El Souk appealed less to my aesthetic taste, but it was more traditional in terms of style, so I thought that it might be a better choice for my mum (luckily I guessed right). The courtyard did feel a little cramped in comparison to the others, but they do have a lovely small pool with a beautiful tile surround, plus it was very quiet (a bonus in the medina) and the service was impeccable. The staff were on hand to help us with all of our questions. Just book a room on the first floor or higher as the ground floor rooms feel a little too close to the tables where guests eat breakfast in the mornings.
This was the newest of the riads that we stayed in (only four years old), and the most aesthetically-pleasing in terms of design that will appeal to the minimalists amongst you. It was fresh and minimal - perhaps a little too minimal for my liking and lacking the cozier feeling that Dar Rbaa Laroub exuded - but was bright and fresh and with lovely touches of Moroccan charm throughout the space in the shape of cushions, chairs and ceramics. Plus it boasts a beautiful plant-filled courtyard, with a pool and seating area that really makes it feel like a calm haven from the busy medina. The rooms are large and come with big bathrooms, my only criticism being that there’s no door separating the toilet and the bedroom, so be prepared to get intimate; it wasn’t the ideal set-up for a mother daughter trip.
The rooftop was my favourite part as it has different seating areas, including rattan loungers (where I did indeed steal a couple of hours to myself to read), striped parasols and a large collection of pretty terracotta pots filled with cacti. You can see that it’s been well thought out and the breakfast offered was the best of the three riads we stayed in. Of course the price reflects this, with it also being the most expensive of the three, but it’s still very affordable.
DINE
L’Mida - a nicely-designed restaurant with a lovely rooftop (appartently the highest in Marrakech) and good food. We loved the chicken satay skewers and mocktails.
Rooftop Dardar - serving western cuisine like tacos and chicken wings, it’s great for lunch or dinner with lovely views from the rooftop. Just be sure to specify that you want a table on the rooftop and to book a few days in advance, even if you only want to go for a drink at sunset.
Cafe des Epices - good for lunch, they do lovely traditional tagines and Moroccan salads and also have a rooftop terrace.
La Famille - a vegetarian restaurant in a calm courtyard serving delicious salads and pizzas that makes a perfect spot for lunch, especially after visiting the Bahia Palace as it’s just down the road.
Nomad - a modern spin on Moroccan cuisine, we had a lovely dinner here on our last night on a corner table with comfy seating.
Le Jardin - I lunched here the last time I was in Marrakech for a press trip and remember loving the green tiles, so decided to go back for lunch and it still holds its charm.
Kabana - a good place for pre-dinner drinks; we enjoyed a good (albeit very strong) margarita here before dinner. I’m fussy with my margaritas (what with it being my favourite cocktail), so was pleasantly surprised by how good it was!
Dar Marjana - this was recommended to me by a friend who goes almost every year to Marrakech. I wanted to book a more traditional restaurant for my mum’s birthday; something with a bit of entertainment and this one didn’t disappoint. They play live music, dance and there’s even a belly dancer. Each dish is brought out as if it were part of a spectacle and all the staff came and sang happy birthday to my mum as they served us the dessert with a candle on it, making her feel very special. I booked a couple of weeks in advance and told them that it was her birthday. They asked for her name, which was written in sequins on the table when we arrived. They went out of their way to make the evening special for her, so I would highly recommend for a birthday celebration.
VISIT
Bahia Palace - a palace filled to the brim with tiles and ornately-painted wood carvings, ceilings and doors that you could spend hours in admiring the incredibly intricate craftsmanship that went into this beautiful place.
Musée Yves Saint Laurent - designed by French architect-duo, Studio Ko, its makes for an interesting visit just to see the building. Inside discover more about the life, art and designs of Yves Saint Laurent and make sure you watch the video about his fashion in the theatre before leaving.
Jardin Marjorelle - the must-visit garden filled with cacti, plants and colourful pots, housing the 1930s cubist villa built by the French architect, Paul Sinoir and a museum on Berber culture that Yves Saint Laurent and his partner bought in 1980 to save it from property developers.
SHOP
LRNCE - the now well-known brand is a ceramics and textile haven. They also recently opened their riad, Rosemary, which wasn’t yet open when I was booking, but I’ve now added it to my list for next time.
Tribaliste - a rug shop where you can also create your own.
Magasin General - A huge space selling vintage French wares. It’s pricey though, but great to visit for inspiration.
A bientôt, Marissa xx
A grand summary of the incredible trip you planned for my 70th birthday celebration. I will treasure memories from it all my life. You captured the sights, sounds and smells perfectly and my feelings about the different riads. It almost makes me want to go again...thanks again my lovely daughter.
Moo xxx